A Kaiseki Chef’s Voice at Expo 2025: Rethinking Japan’s Food Culture Through Sustainability

2025.07.09

By Chef Yuuki Tanaka, owner of Ise Sueyoshi — Tripadvisor Best of the Best: Japan #1, World #2.

What You’ll Learn in This Article:

What message Chef Yuuki Tanaka shared at the Expo 2025 pre-event
Why Japanese food culture is facing a critical turning point
How sustainability and local producers are shaping the future of Japanese cuisine
Why Japanese chefs must rediscover the value of traditional ingredients
How Ise Sueyoshi is working to pass on Japan’s culinary identity to future generations

Expo Stage Reflections

What if the dish you experience while traveling could leave a meaningful trace on the future of our planet?

With this thought in mind, I, Yuuki Tanaka—owner-chef of Ise Sueyoshi—stood on stage at Expo 2025 Osaka-Kansai on June 9, 2025.
The venue was EXPO Messe WASSE, and the session was titled:
“RELAY THE FOOD – Connecting Food and Culture for the Future.”

Centered on sustainability, it was a rare and invaluable opportunity to exchange ideas about the future of food with chefs, researchers, and producers from around the world.

The opportunity to take the stage came through my work as a board member of the Sustainable Restaurant Association Japan, thanks to a kind invitation from Mr. Shimotaya.
To stand on the stage of a world expo—not as an attendee, but as a chef sharing my own words—is something that may only happen once or twice in a lifetime. It was a humbling and powerful moment.

I was admittedly nervous before going on stage, but casual conversations with fellow speakers while preparing food gradually eased my tension.
“I’ll just enjoy sharing my thoughts.”
With that in mind, I stepped onto the global stage of Expo as a kaiseki chef from Japan.

To be able to speak to society and to the future through the lens of cuisine—
This day reaffirmed the power and potential of that role, and I carry that conviction forward.

Sustainability in Focus

Expo 2025 Osaka-Kansai, held on Yumeshima Island, is a globally anticipated event that envisions a future society driven by innovation, harmony, and sustainability.
With the theme “Designing Future Society for Our Lives,” the expo brings together global wisdom and passion to propose a better future across fields such as technology, culture, and food.

The session I joined was titled “RELAY THE FOOD – Connecting Food and Culture for the Future.”
It brought together a diverse group of speakers from across disciplines and professions to explore what “sustainable food” should look like in the years ahead.

Sharing the stage with some of Japan’s leading chefs, producers, and researchers was both a learning experience and an inspiring moment for me as a chef.
Chef Sugiura spoke of the transformative potential of plant-based cuisine, while Chef Iwasawa offered a forward-looking perspective on seaweed as a next-generation food.
Their insights reflected a deeply rooted commitment to environmental harmony, not only in their words but in the way they view their roles as culinary professionals and collaborators with producers.

Central themes of the session included the use of seaweed, the rediscovery of underutilized fish, and plant-based food innovation—all aimed at redefining our relationship with the Earth through cuisine.

As chefs, we stand at the final stage of the food chain.
If we prepare food without thinking about where each ingredient comes from—or where it is heading—we may no longer be aligned with the values required in this new era.

Sustainability is not a trend; it is a responsibility toward the future.
In fact, traditional food cultures around the world have endured precisely because they were inherently sustainable.
And yet today, many of those very cultures are being challenged and must be reexamined in light of global change.

My hope is that for the next generation of chefs and food professionals, sustainability will no longer be seen as a “special effort” but rather as a natural standard—a way of thinking that is woven into the very fabric of how we cook, serve, and live.

From Chef’s Voice

On the expo stage, what I conveyed was the real-world challenges present in the day-to-day realm of food that we, as chefs, continuously confront. For example, there are countless fish that never even make it to the supermarket shelves—fish deemed “unsellable” simply because of their poor appearance, lack of recognition, difficulty in processing, or even the risk of damaging other fish. Despite their quality, these fish are discarded solely for these reasons.

Together with high school students, I have been working on the “Ajiwai Dressing” project, which repurposes such underutilized fish. By transforming what would have been wasted fish into a unique seasoning, we breathe new life into these ingredients. The passion and creativity of these young minds have been a tremendous source of inspiration for me.

During my presentation, I also offered a tasting of a dish made from Takanoha-dai—a type of underutilized fish. We prepared the dish in a way that brought out its rich umami and a subtle toasted aroma. The feedback was overwhelmingly positive, with participants exclaiming, “It’s delicious,” and “I’ve never tasted such fish before,” which reaffirmed our mission.

For a chef, the responsibility goes beyond simply “making something delicious.” It’s about crafting an experience that can change one’s perspective in just a single bite. At Ise Sueyoshi, we cherish not only the art of serving exquisite food but also the opportunity to provide an immersive cultural experience. Through dishes that resonate long after the meal is over, we hope to spark a lasting impression on the hearts of our guests.

Fish Project Roots

“Ajiwai Dressing” was born from a project to utilize underutilized fish, developed in collaboration with high school students in Mie Prefecture. The inspiration came from a conversation at a local fishing port, where I learned about the large quantities of perfectly fresh and tasty fish being discarded simply because they didn’t meet commercial standards for appearance or size. I was shocked by the reality that such valuable resources were going to waste.

“I want to give these fish new value.”
That desire led us, five years ago, to begin developing a versatile local seasoning with students—one that would celebrate regional flavor. By using the bones and flesh of horse mackerel (aji) in their entirety, we created a dressing rich in umami, which has been well received for its compatibility with both Japanese and Western dishes.

This initiative goes beyond simple product development. The dressing has been used in school lunches, local souvenir shops, and workshops, offering people of all ages opportunities to think about food sustainability and the importance of regional resources.

Creating the future of food alongside the next generation—
For me, as a chef striving to pass on cultural traditions through kaiseki cuisine, this is a mission for the future.

Real Voices Heard

Every month, I visit fishing ports and farms across Mie Prefecture and other regions in Japan to meet producers and speak with them directly.
While one purpose is certainly to see and taste seasonal ingredients firsthand, I believe the greater value lies in sensing the unspoken feelings exchanged on site.

Many producers quietly share the philosophies and techniques they’ve cultivated through years of living in harmony with nature.
For example, they might say, “This fish reaches peak fat content when the ocean currents shift in a certain month,” or “This vegetable is most fragrant when harvested at dawn.”
Others speak of geographic features—“This flavor is only possible because of this land”—or deeply considered methods of cultivation.

As a chef, each of these “stories behind the ingredients” reminds me that what I hold in my hands is not just a product, but something imbued with intention, worthy of being honored in each dish I prepare.

At the same time, I try to listen carefully to the quiet, passing remarks.
Phrases like “It doesn’t sell because no one knows the name,” or “Just because the shape is a little off, it can’t go to market” reveal a deeper issue—the presence of underutilized byproducts and off-spec produce.
There are fish and vegetables with outstanding flavor and aroma that are deemed unmarketable simply for not meeting visual standards.

These are not second-rate ingredients—they are hidden gems that simply haven’t been noticed yet.

What I can do as a chef is to shine a light on their value.
I strive to transform the producers’ dedication and the rhythms of nature into dishes that speak directly to the hearts of my guests.

A single plate of food can tell a story—not just of flavor, but of origin, production, and place.
By continuing to offer such dishes, I hope to spark subtle shifts in how people perceive ingredients, helping them to see beyond appearance to the deeper value within.

That is the role I wish to continue fulfilling—as a bridge between the people who grow our food and those who enjoy it.

Spirit of Cooking

What I value most through my cooking is the philosophy I call “the circulation of the heart.”
My goal is not simply to create delicious dishes.
Rather, I believe that every plate should embody the story behind the ingredients—how they were grown, who was involved, and what passions and intentions they carry.
It is a union of the producer’s devotion, the ingredient’s origin, and the chef’s technique and interpretation.

I aim to create dishes that naturally spark dialogue.
Questions like “Why was this fish prepared in this way?” or “Why is it served in this particular vessel?” should arise as part of the experience.
This is not merely about flavor, but about engaging all the senses—sight, smell, touch, sound, and taste—in a fully immersive journey.

At Ise Sueyoshi, we cherish every encounter as ichigo ichie—a once-in-a-lifetime meeting.
We strive to present the very best of the season, at that moment, to each and every guest before us.
That spirit flows through every step of preparation, and into every dish we serve.

Read More about Chef Yuuki

The Story of Tokyo’s Best Chef, Yuuki Tanaka: Bringing the Blessings of His Hometown to the World

Hare and Ke

In Japan, there exists a unique way of perceiving time known as “hare” and “ke.”
Hare refers to special, extraordinary occasions—such as weddings or the New Year—moments that are set apart from everyday life.
On the other hand, ke represents the routine of daily living—ordinary time and everyday practices.

At Ise Sueyoshi, we serve kaiseki cuisine, which symbolizes the spirit of hare.
We craft seasonal dishes using luxurious ingredients like spiny lobster, premium wagyu beef, blowfish, and bluefin tuna—ingredients that capture the essence of a particular season and occasion.
In an atmosphere of stillness and refined setting, we offer a moment of heightened sensory awareness—a truly “special time” that embodies the hare experience.

Yet, I also believe that the practice of ke is equally important.
One example is the “Ajiwai Dressing,” a product I developed together with local high school students.
It’s made from underutilized horse mackerel and offers a sustainable food option for daily meals.
By bringing sustainable food practices into school lunches and family kitchens, we extend the philosophy of ke into the everyday.

Both hare and ke hold equal value—both are cultural expressions that should be preserved and passed down to future generations.
That said, how we embody them must evolve with the times.
Whether working with luxury ingredients or humble, overlooked ones, I believe it is the responsibility of chefs to honor the life and labor behind each item and to transmit that value in a sustainable way.

No matter the ingredient, I aim to create dishes that make people feel, “This is something special.”
That is the spirit I hold dear—whether in hare or ke.

Read More about Wagyubeef

Read More about fugu (pufferfish)

Read More about Ise Ebi Lobster

Read More about Tuna

What is Kaiseki

Kaiseki cuisine finds its origin in the Japanese tea ceremony.
It was initially created as a humble and heartfelt meal to gently ease hunger and prepare the body for the enjoyment of tea.
The term kaiseki comes from the practice of Zen monks who would warm themselves by placing heated stones (seki) inside the front of their robes (kai), symbolizing both physical and spiritual warmth.

Over time, kaiseki evolved into one of the most refined forms of Japanese cuisine, grounded in the principle of ichiju sansai—one soup and three dishes—presented with exquisite balance and visual harmony.
At its heart is the ingredient itself. Kaiseki celebrates the natural essence of each seasonal ingredient, adhering to a “less is more” philosophy that avoids unnecessary decoration and manipulation.

The spirit of omotenashi—Japanese hospitality—runs deeply through kaiseki.
From the choice of dishes and plating, to the table setting and precise timing of each course, every detail is designed with the guest’s comfort and joy in mind.
Each dish becomes a reflection of the season, of cultural nuance, and of heartfelt intention.

At Ise Sueyoshi, we honor the traditional structure of kaiseki while also sharing the stories behind the ingredients and their producers.
To help international guests fully engage with the experience, we provide clear explanations in English for every course.

For many of our guests from abroad, it’s not just the flavors that leave a lasting impression—it’s the gestures of service, the delicacy of the ceramics, the depth of taste, and the quiet rhythm of the experience.
Kaiseki is not merely a meal, but a cultural journey of the heart—one that can only be fully experienced here in Japan.

Read more: What is Kaiseki cuisine?

Vegetarian Trends

In recent years, especially in Western countries, the way people think about food has begun to change significantly.
Beyond health-consciousness and religious practices, more people are now choosing to avoid animal-based products out of concern for the environment—what could be called a “restriction by choice.”

Among these shifts, vegetarianism and veganism have emerged as prominent lifestyle movements.
At Ise Sueyoshi, we have seen a steady increase in requests for vegetarian and vegan kaiseki courses from our international guests.

Using traditional Japanese ingredients, we create completely plant-based dishes that highlight the delicate umami of kombu kelp, shiitake mushrooms, and other natural sources—without relying on animal products of any kind.
Vegetables, seaweed, legumes, and grains take center stage, but we make no compromises in presentation, composition, or flavor.

Many guests express surprise:
“I can’t believe there’s no meat or fish in this.”
Indeed, it is often within limitations that our creativity flourishes.

Beauty and richness born from restraint—this, we believe, is one of the most fitting approaches to dining in a sustainable age.
Our challenge lies at the intersection of traditional kaiseki philosophy and a forward-looking view of food.

For more about our vegan or vegetarian philosophy please visit this page.

Future Through Food

“To become a chef who can help save the world”—this is a quiet yet powerful dream I have carried with me for years.
The path to that dream begins with a single dish:
By pouring all of my energy into each plate, I aim to capture the spirit of the land, the passion of the producers, and transform it into a lasting memory for every guest.

At Ise Sueyoshi, tucked away in a quiet corner of Tokyo, I strive to embody that intention through kaiseki cuisine each day.
While honoring the elegant traditions of “hare” (celebratory food culture), I also continue to make proposals grounded in the everyday lens of “ke”—working with regional ingredients and overlooked resources in new, meaningful ways.

This manifests in diverse forms:
From collaborative projects with high school students to give new life to underutilized fish from Mie Prefecture,
to beautifully crafted dishes that respect dietary restrictions without compromising on artistry or flavor—each is a reflection of the power of cuisine.

My experience on stage at Expo 2025 reaffirmed that power.
Food transcends language and borders. It moves hearts, and it has the potential to connect us to a brighter, more sustainable future.

That’s why I will continue to stand in the kitchen.
With each dish I create, I hope to take one small, yet meaningful step forward.

It is the plate in front of us—crafted in this very moment—that can shape the world to come.
With this belief at heart, I will keep moving forward.

We are proud to continue delivering an exceptional dining experience that earned us the Tripadvisor Travelers’ Choice Best of the Best 2024 award, ranking among the Best Restaurants in Tokyo. Our commitment to excellence in service and our dedication to offering the finest kaiseki dining experience in Tokyo remain unwavering. Discover more about our journey to becoming one of the best restaurants in the city[here].

Visit Ise Sueyoshi

Location: Conveniently located 12 minutes from Roppongi Station and 8 minutes from Hiroo Station.
Hours: Open 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM, reservations only. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
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Reservation Page

Reservation Information

In response to many requests from our guests, Ise Sueyoshi now accepts reservations up to 180 days in advance of your preferred dining date.
With only 10 seats available, we are committed to providing a smooth and personalized reservation experience.
To ensure you don’t miss the opportunity to celebrate your important anniversaries or special occasions with us, we highly recommend making your reservation as soon as your plans are set.

If you are planning a trip to Japan, we warmly invite you to include a special moment at Ise Sueyoshi in your itinerary.
Many of our guests also choose us for their final evening in Japan, as a beautiful and memorable way to conclude their journey.

Please note that our reservation policies may change without prior notice. For the latest updates, please refer to our reservation page.

Conclusion

At Ise Sueyoshi, we humbly invite you to experience a dining journey that caters to all dietary needs. Whether you’re vegan, halal, or have specific preferences, we are here to create a memorable and inclusive dining experience for you, especially for special occasions like a honeymoon.

A Kaiseki Chef’s Voice at Expo 2025: Rethinking Japan’s Food Culture Through Sustainability | 伊勢すえよし

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